More Privateer pictures

Looks like Lone Star models is planning to release a complete resin kits.  One will soon be able to make a privateer with out cutting up a Monogram B-24!

How to cast clear canopies

casting clear resin canopys

Part 3 of what Judges look for.

Modeling Basics

Aircraft 

Basic Construction 

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, copyright marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.
   
2. Seams filled if not present on the actual aircraft.
   
3. Contour errors corrected.
   
4. Any detailing removed while correcting errors, filling seams, etc. restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.
   
5. Alignment
   
   
   1. Wings/tailplanes: same dihedral or anhedral on both sides.
      
   2. Plan view: wings and stabilizers aligned correctly with, and identically on both sides of, centerline.
      
   3. Multiple fins/rudders: fin-to-stabilizer angles correct; aligned with each other in front and side views where appropriate.
      
   4. Engine nacelles/cowlings: lined up correctly in front, side, and plan views.
      
   5. Landing gear: components properly aligned with airframe and with each other in front, side, and plan views.
      
   6. Ordnance items (bombs, rockets, pylons, etc.) aligned correctly with aircraft and with each other.
      
6. Canopies and other clear areas:
   
   
   1. Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.
      
   2. Gaps between windscreen, canopy, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.
      
   3. All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.
      
7. Decals must look painted on if depicting painted markings (conforming to surface contours, no silvering or bubbling, no decal film apparent).

Details 

1. Thick parts should be thinned to scale or replaced; e.g., wing trailing edges and similar surfaces, ordnance fins, landing gear doors, edges of open panels, etc.
   
2. Wheel wells, intakes, scoops, etc. should be blocked off to prevent a "see-through" effect.
   
3. Gun barrels, exhaust stacks, intakes, vents, and similar openings should be opened.
   
4. Details added to the model should be in scale or as close to scale as possible.
   
5. External stores should be built to the same level of quality as the model to which they are attached. Stores/weapons combinations on a model should represent only those combinations actually carried by the real aircraft.
   
6. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.

Painting and Finishing 

1. The model's surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).
   
2. Finish should be even and smooth. If irregularities in the actual aircraft's finish are being duplicated, documentation of such irregularities is required.
   
   
   1. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
      
   2. No "orange-peel" or "eggshell" effect; no "powdering" in areas such as fillets or wing roots.
      
   3. No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.
      
3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.
4. Framing on clear parts should have crisp, uniform edges.
   
5. Weathering, if present, should show concern for scale (e.g., size of chipped areas), be in accordance with the conditions in which the real aircraft was operating, and be consistent throughout the model (a factory-fresh interior would be unlikely on a 100-mission aircraft).
   
6. Decals:
   
   
   1. Aligned properly. (If the real aircraft had a markings anomaly; e.g., an inverted U.S. insignia, the model builder should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else's error, not inadvertently making one of his own.)
      
   2. Some modern aircraft use decals rather than paint for standard markings. If the real aircraft suffers from problems with decal application, such anomalies should be documented if duplicated on the model.
      
7. Colors. Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather and sunlight, and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, aside from gross inaccuracies such as a light green "Red Arrows" aircraft, color shades should not be used to determine a model's accuracy or lack thereof. Again, models with unusual colors should be supported by confirming documentation.

1/72 P-51C build Bonnie "B"

Trying my hand at building a P-51C. This is the academy kit.  Overall it isn't that bad of a kit.  I had started for the 2019 IPMS national for the D-Day special award.  Needless to say I ran out of time. Because I couldn't get off my lazy ass...lol.    Below in the aircraft I was trying to recreate.

Lucky for me Kits-World has a decal sheet for it.  Not quite correct but close enough.  What If find interesting in the photo is the OD band between the invasion stripe on the fuselage. 

What to Judges look for Part 2

I asked Barry Numerick who the Bf-109 whiz.  Barry constantly wins at local, regional and National level with amazing BF-109. If you look at my model tips you will most of his techniques.  Below is his reply.  No magic just perfect construction.


 what do judges look for? There is a seminar at every National convention on this topic. But in essence it comes down t only one thing: the basics. If you can build a straight model, fill seams, apply decals without silvering and paint decently, you have a shot at placing at the Nats! I can't tell you how many models are disqualified due to the inability of many modelers to do just that. I first heard this in 1980 from the president of the Washington DC IPMS chapter, soon after I joined IPMS. I though this couldn't be right; detailing or some sort of modeling magic must play a part. But after judging at the Nationals for 21 years, I can say it isn't. The first things a judging team looks for are basic mistakes. This will eliminate half of the entries at least. Then we get down to comparing the models to each other. The lighting in most contest rooms is not good enough to do a serious evaluation, so flashlights are necessary; often just to see the interior and cockpit details. One final thought, accuracy is very far down the list of judging criteria. A judging team cannot be knowledgable about all of the models they judge, so the modeler is given the benefit of the doubt in most cases. I hope this helps.

All the best,

Barry

New series. Why didn't I win a medal at the Nationals Part 1

Let get one thing straight folks this a guide.  It is my hope to help my fellow modelers understand why they didnt place at Contest.  May it be local, regional or at National level. I know a lot of us go home pissed off.  We complain about the judges, the rule or lack of rules.   Here is the first of what I go from other groups. Also I will delete unfavorable comments

This from David's Model Page.   David is an excellent modeler.  Here is what he has to said

The real reason your model didn’t win is because model judging is an inherently subjective business rules or not.

You might not have won because your model was legitimately bad, or at least not as good as other models entered. But it’s equally likely you didn’t win because the third judge from the lefts’s dad flew one of the aircraft modelled so prefers that, or hates German aircraft because Germany lost, or knows the builder and understands the extra work it took to create a diamond tread pattern from scratch...

IPMS judging introduces a particular bias towards focusing on assembly and alignment issues to the exclusion of other considerations but you’ll still see locals among the medals at most shows because that is how we all roll.

IPMS judging is designed to ensure you spend your time looking at individual trees and never consider the beauty of the damn Forrest. It explains how shiny P-47s and dead boring OD Shermans win gold, when models either side that demonstrate some appreciation of scale realism don’t because a pitot was slightly misaligned or the rudder was modelled deflected but the builder forget to move the pedals to reflect this, or the stowage on the Panzer would have prevented the crew clearing for action quickly so obvs it would not have been there.

As someone who formerly cared about comps, I get the satisfaction that comes from medaling but if you think that medal is an objective assessment of quality you’re kidding yourself. The best you can hope for is to consistently build and finish to a high standard and enjoy yourself and the experience, some days your fastidious attention to alignment and seams and realistic portrayal of the subject will pay off. Other days a shiny P-47 that looks like a toy will win regardless because reasons...

Camouflage and markings series of WW2 aircraft.

This series a the time these where released was the best series for camouflage and markings. I am lucky to  have a few of the books.  One can not go wrong using the books are reference for your build. Lucky for us modelers some has created a page with all of the books.  From the Hurricane to the US Mustang.   Here is the link to the books:-References/Camouflage-Markings