Monday, June 15, 2020

How too apply a decal on the A-4 skyhawk. By David Aungst

David has six easy steps to lay down  the wing decal over the vertices.   This is the bane of building A-4 Skyhawk model.
The Start

The wing vortex generators are very large and on high-viz Skyhawks, you need the national insignia to go over them.



Step 1

Apply the decal. Only have the forward section of the decal flat on the wing. Hold the decal up in the back. Stiffer decal will stay up on their own. Thin ones need help. I am using my favorite decals tool (a sewing needle mounted in a wood dowel) to prop up the back of the decal.


Step 2

With the decal popped up, apply setting solution (I use Solv-a-set) directly on the vortex generators under the decal. Then, let got of the decal. On thin decals, the raised portion will just flop down. On thicker decals, the setting solution will work in the decal from the back side and it will relax down.

Avoid the temptation to "help" it go down. You run the risk of distorting the decal.

Also, try to avoid any air bubbles around the vortex generators. Any air bubbles will make bubbles in the decal that you will later have to pop so the decal lays flat.

Step 3

Now starts the waiting game. All the wrinkles tell you the setting solution is working. As the decal is drying, I will apply more setting solution on the area of the vortex generators to help keep the decal softened. As it drys, the decal is sucked down over the vortex generators.

IMPORTANT - Do not try to flatten the wrinkles out of the decal. This wrinkling is normal and will level out as the decal dries.



As the solvent continues working, the decal can look really bad. Still, refrain from trying to fix it at this stage.

You can start seeing the decal being pulled down over the vortex generators, here.



Step 4

The decal is mostly dry/set. Some wrinkles are still present. The decal is getting pulled down over the vortex generators.



Step 5

This is the morning after.

The decal is fully dry/set. You can see that the decal had snuggled down over most of the vortex generators. The ones at the left end are not yet fully pulled down.



Step 6

Use a tool to poke holes in the decal at the bubble points. Take care not to do too may. These holes are what may create tares in the decal that later need to be fixed with paint.

Then, apply more decal solvent.

Repeat this step as much as you need to until you are done.


Done! The decal has snuggled down over all the vortex generators.



Here is a view without the light reflections. You can see I have a few minor tares in the decal at the base of a few vortex generators to touch-up with paint on the left end. This was where the bubbles were under the decal, so these were expected. The right end vortex generators had the decal suck down around them without bubbles, so they did not need poking (which causes the tares).

Sunday, June 14, 2020

FalkeEins interview Barry Numerick "Mr 109"

Since my eye surgery I have been catching up with the blog I like. One of my favorite is FalkeEins. His 'The Luftwaffe Blog"  I consider one of the best luftwaffe history on the internet.  Today I just read his article about Barry Numerick. 

  If you have been to the Nationals and Region 4 IPMS contests you will see Barry's BF-109's proud display on the table in the 1/72 Axis (German) category.   Barry BF-109 are like fine crafted jewelry. They are always amazing.  Plus they normally win the class.

FalkeEins did a excellent interview with Barry and his BF-109s.   The interview can be found here:Building the Bf 109 with award-winning modeler Barry Numerick - Modeler Profile (2)

   I guarantee you will enjoy this article.  Also Thanks to Neil for listing my blog at the end of the article.

Barry's 1/72 BF-109 collection.
   

191St Fig F-4C crew chiefs / CAM Sq

Here are the William Tell Crew Chief and support people.   The com guys all left the unit in the mid 80's as NWT was turning Detroit Metro into a maintenance.  The pay was better than a guard technician's


Names are Back Row: Gordie Graham, John Bullis, Cliff Allen Larry Bishop and John Dyer. Front row is Mike Galea, Ed Gumbko, Paul Chamberlin and Frank Morris.

Com Shop Gordie Graham, John Dyer and Frank Morris.

Photo credit Ed Gumbko.

Weapon crew.
On the left is Jim Flisnik.  Jim passed away on April 23,2020. Funny guy 

Photo by Phil Gabler William Tell 1982

Saturday, June 13, 2020

Flashy KC-135

Here are a few KC-135 for you.  KC-135 photo in their early life with SAC are had to find..













Friday, June 12, 2020

C-119 another USAF workhorse.

C-119 where the medium cargo hauler for the USAF from the 50 to 70's.   Some are still flying as fire bombers.  Not sure if any civilian air freight operator used this aircraft or not.











Photos by Nick Williams

Phot by Nick Williams

Photo by Nick Williams

Thursday, June 11, 2020

Converting FW190 A3 to A4 (Tamiya) Part 2

Sorry for not posting progress on this.  I just had cataract surgery on my eyes.  Currently I have to let the eyes adjust to the new lense implants..   Here is part two.


I did not do as the instruction said.  The cur was continued to the wing root


Rudder remove from kit

side view before the remove of the fuselage 

As one can see now.  I got excellent fitment


Top view showing both gill openings replaced.

Post war Navy blue.

This is off of Hyperscale.  
Corey in Colorado suggestion as to which paint company has the bet match.


Overall I like the Gunze Mr Color gloss sea blue C365 that comes in the US Navy special box, it sprays wonderfully, is very durable and looks pretty good.

The old Model Master GSB looked good too, I liked the slight green hue that it had. In my opinion, it didn’t perform quite as well as the Gunze did.

I have recently tested the MRP navy blue 14 and thought it performed well and looked ok, maybe a little too grey. I’m not educated in color theory so I’m not sure about the terminology, but the MRP gsb didn’t look as “deep” a blue as the Gunze or Model Master blues. I guess this means the MRP is less saturated?

Corey


Here is a test strip I did during my last Gloss Sea Blue build. Totally unscientific and stupidly sprayed on a Corsair wing (all I had at hand) but maybe it will give an idea.


Also, interestingly (and confusingly), Gunze Navy Blue 14 and MRP 14 look just about exactly the same (Gunze 14 not shown on test strip above.)