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| Light grey area is where the putty was applied on the wings. |
Braxton Perry I was there 63-65 and we had all "C" models
Friday, June 21, 2019
P-51 Mustang info
The big debate over natural finished P-51. The image below shows what was painted. Plus natural metal areas on the air
frame.
Ak interactive new Real colors
Talk about some awesome paint. With testors model master having gone the way of the Do Do bird this is god sent. The paint pretty well matches the colors to the spec's. Her is the video better than me yaking about it.
Thursday, June 20, 2019
Pt 2 Amazing C-124 loadmaster and crew comments
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| Jim Stolfi It's a C model, Tachi birds all A models started with "1", example, 51-0119 was 1-0119. They were converted to Cs in mid '60s I understand. |
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| Khan Duc dirty airstrip Vietman |
Stories about the C-124.
Richard Jones Been there done that.
Walter McCann I was with the “BullyBeef Express” C-124s in Tachi 1952/3
Stan Gross We hauled from peanuts to Tractors to Gasoline Tankers-to 40,000 lbs of Beer to English Troops in Jordan from Cyprus-Nothing to small or too Big-Right Woody??
Clair Repple 15 hour ground time Travis AFB 50k fuel Hickum next
Monday, June 17, 2019
Scratch building a BF-109 canopy by Barry Numerick
A few tricks that some may find useful. A I mentioned, the canopy of the Tamiya 109 is rather thick. I was able to sand the inside on the rear section and polish it back up, but that proved impractical for the center section. I tried several different clear plastics from the stash and ended up using one of the less suitable, .015" Evergreen styrene. Butyrate would have been better, but I didn't have any at hand. Styrene tends to shatter or tear, but if you're careful, you can get acceptable results. Here's the first step. cutting the piece to the proper length and width, then gently scribing the centerline, which represents the individual panes.
IMG_5986
Paint the edges with RLM 66. Don't worry about the ragged looking edges, they will be covered by decals cut into strips to represent frames.
IMG_5995
I wanted to represent the bolts on the base strips at the bottom of the canopy. I the old days when I modeled in 1/48, these would be made from bits of stretched sprue, but that really isn't practical in 1/72. I stumbled across this idea while practicing with Radu Brinzan's riveter. I consider this to be the best riveter on the market because the wheel is photo-etched steel and makes a VERY small rivet. Run the riveter across .005" styrene, flip it over and you get a very nice impression of bolts.
IMG_6039
IMG_6030
Spray the interior color and drybrush with light grey oil paint. Also, emboss the rivets, then cut the strip. Doing the reverse will severely distort the strip. Before applying with white glue, paint the reverse side also. Otherwise the white plastic will be reflected through the panel.
IMG_6024
Finally, I wanted to represent the locking lever on the side of the bottom frame. An easy way to represent a flat, curved piece it to curl stretched sprue, then flatted it with a pair of flat pliers. The knob is a bit of stretched sprue. The handle is then glued to a bent piece of .005" sheet, painted grey and again white glued the the frame.
IMG_6036
IMG_6040
IMG_6041
IMG_6043
Here's the nearly complete canopy. Next will be the small knobs on the forward panel and applying Hans Fay's finger prints on the knob. Just kidding about the fingerprints, I have no idea what they looked like.
IMG_6044
...made the little knobs tonight so I decided to add them to this segment. They are thin sprue dipped in white glue. After drying I further dipped them in Metalizer non-buffing aluminum. Then snipped them off and attached them with more white glue. They may be a bit big, but they're the smallest of the 10 or so that I made and its difficult to work with anything smaller.
IMG_6050
IMG_5986 Paint the edges with RLM 66. Don't worry about the ragged looking edges, they will be covered by decals cut into strips to represent frames.
IMG_5995 I wanted to represent the bolts on the base strips at the bottom of the canopy. I the old days when I modeled in 1/48, these would be made from bits of stretched sprue, but that really isn't practical in 1/72. I stumbled across this idea while practicing with Radu Brinzan's riveter. I consider this to be the best riveter on the market because the wheel is photo-etched steel and makes a VERY small rivet. Run the riveter across .005" styrene, flip it over and you get a very nice impression of bolts.
IMG_6039 IMG_6030 Spray the interior color and drybrush with light grey oil paint. Also, emboss the rivets, then cut the strip. Doing the reverse will severely distort the strip. Before applying with white glue, paint the reverse side also. Otherwise the white plastic will be reflected through the panel.
IMG_6024 Finally, I wanted to represent the locking lever on the side of the bottom frame. An easy way to represent a flat, curved piece it to curl stretched sprue, then flatted it with a pair of flat pliers. The knob is a bit of stretched sprue. The handle is then glued to a bent piece of .005" sheet, painted grey and again white glued the the frame.
IMG_6036 IMG_6040 IMG_6041 IMG_6043 Here's the nearly complete canopy. Next will be the small knobs on the forward panel and applying Hans Fay's finger prints on the knob. Just kidding about the fingerprints, I have no idea what they looked like.
IMG_6044 ...made the little knobs tonight so I decided to add them to this segment. They are thin sprue dipped in white glue. After drying I further dipped them in Metalizer non-buffing aluminum. Then snipped them off and attached them with more white glue. They may be a bit big, but they're the smallest of the 10 or so that I made and its difficult to work with anything smaller.
IMG_6050 Barry's antenna insulator's for Bf-109
Mr Numerick how to make insulators for BF109 in 72nd scale
This is not some bizarre alien ( :lol: ) landscape, but many attempts to make the small cones that cover the ceramic doo-dads on the antenna. Hopefully this would be enough to get two acceptable parts. They were made by heating a small section of .010" styrene over a candle flame and then plunging a needle into the soft spot. Much like stretching sprue, you eventually get the feel for doing it.
IMG_6133
I painted them metalizer non-buffing aluminum before cutting them off. They were removed with a straight edge razor blade. Then the small cone is put back on the tip of the needle and pressed into some sheet styrene. This allows the needle to poke a small hole in the tip. The only way to handle them at this point is by licking a fingertip and touching the part. Model identification by DNA testing can't be far off. Here are two of them strung on the stretched sprue antenna.
This is not some bizarre alien ( :lol: ) landscape, but many attempts to make the small cones that cover the ceramic doo-dads on the antenna. Hopefully this would be enough to get two acceptable parts. They were made by heating a small section of .010" styrene over a candle flame and then plunging a needle into the soft spot. Much like stretching sprue, you eventually get the feel for doing it.
IMG_6133 I painted them metalizer non-buffing aluminum before cutting them off. They were removed with a straight edge razor blade. Then the small cone is put back on the tip of the needle and pressed into some sheet styrene. This allows the needle to poke a small hole in the tip. The only way to handle them at this point is by licking a fingertip and touching the part. Model identification by DNA testing can't be far off. Here are two of them strung on the stretched sprue antenna.
Saturday, June 15, 2019
Walk around video of a Privateer
Found this on You tube today. Great views of all the turrets. Perfect reference for building Privateer.
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