Amazing 1/72 Hurricane by Arma. Built by Glenn Woodruff

 Truly an amazing new model of the Hurricane  Glenn woodruff is the builder of the Hurricane. My hat off for his great modelling skills.

More MIANG photod

 I'm need to add these photos before I loose or deleted.  The RF-84 photo was taken at Metro Detroit airport. The F-100F at Selfridge ANGB, MI.   The last is an old 127th "D"

in it last markings as a Drone.

How to fix mistakes.

 Another great video by Paul .

191St Maintenance control folks. Also know as the puzzle palace

 During my time with the 191St Fig I worked in maintenance control.  During the day shift we would have two controller, Maintenance control specialist in the Delta One van and a Plans and Scheduler.  Sometime additional personnel would be assigned because some injury.   WE would decide what planes would be on the flight schedule for that day.   Additionally put aircraft on rotation to our alert Det in Seymour Johnson for air defense.  Along with the Alert aircraft for our sector that include Detroit.    After every flight we would review the flight records for miniatous problems that would dictate the flying status of the aircraft.

   This where the name the puzzle palace into play.   A lot of time the flight line and the maintenance shops would not agree with our plans of action.  All decision and actions would have been blessed or okay by the Maintenance officer  Skip Kimberly.   

The crew

Controllers

Gary Williams

Gary Vikar

Mike Elwart ( later 80's)

Phil Gaffke

Delta One

Henry Clays

Plans and Scheduler

Linda Bullis (L.B.)

Maintenance Officers

John Doty

Skip Kimberly.

Assistant Maintenance Control officers

Ziggy Zuber

Larry Milburn

On the right is Gary Williams.   Gary and I where good friends.  He was he Tim Allen of M.C.  He always had a wood working project in the works.  Sadly he passed away on Father's day 1995

On the left is Smgt Kelo,  

 

Gary Williams relaxing.

More pictures to come at I find them.

Skip Kimberly

Fixing Silvering on Decals by David Aungst

 This was posted on a Facebook page

Decals 101: Fixing "Silvering"

There are things you can do to limit decal "silvering", but eventually you will get some anyway.

• A glossy surface can help limit the amount of silvering, but some decals will still do it, even though the surface is glassy smooth.
• Lots of water when applying decals can help, especially making sure the surface under the decal is plenty wet before the decal covers it.
• Setting solutions can also help, but most are on top of the decals. The Micro-system places a surface prep solution on the model ahead of the decal, but even this is not always successful. While all the solutions melt the decal to help it conform better to the surfaces, they will not always resolve "silvering" on their own.

So how to fix it when it happens?

I stacked the deck here. I had a friend over on the weekend to talk about decals. I wanted to be sure to get "silvering". I applied a few SuperScale decals over flat paint and did not use any setting solution. I also applied a light flat clear coat over the decals to make the "silvering" really pop out. The shine of the decals can hide the "silvering" until you are near the end and do the flat coat. I got lots of "silvering". And, the "silvering" can still be addressed, even after a clear coat is done.

I have used this method for years.  I works very well.  Since David explained this much better than I could. I just borrowed for the Modeling tips.

The silvering is microscopic air bubbles under the decal. All three of these were "silvered" but I fixed two of them while my friend was watching on Saturday.

Step 1: Lightly hash through the silvered part of the decal with a new Xacto blade. Use just the weight of the knife. You only need to cut the thin decal film and not damage the painted surface. I hash the lines about one per millimeter.

Be careful on this. "Silvered" decals are not attached to the model where the "silvering" is found. If you are not careful with this step, the decal will break and flake off (game over).

This got messier than normal since I was brushing with my left hand while looking through my camera and taking the picture with my right hand. Touch just the ends of the hash cuts. Capillary action will draw the solution under the decal. Swab over the decal after capillary action has already got the solution to go under most (if not all) the decal.

Step 3: Evaluate the result. On tough decals, I may re-hash and re-treat the decals a couple times until I get all the "silvering" to disappear.

Video on how to paint the cockpit of spitfire, FW 190 and P-51

 I need to post with, Otherwise I would loose this information forever to the vast world of you tube. The is great reference on the painting and finishing of your cockpit. And end up with a good looking cockpit.

Most underrated aircraft of the US military during WW2

 Let me say you will surprised at what aircraft they are....   How about he PBY for one...  SO grab you beer and chips. Sit back and enjoy.